There is hardly any family in Benin, Edo State, without a relative living abroad. Benin City records one of the largest diaspora remittance inflows in Africa. As a result, Benin Airport ranks among the three busiest domestic airports in Nigeria.
Benin is also home to immense natural wealth. Oben, a rustic town off the Sapele Road, has one of the largest gas deposits in Africa. One of the Nigerian National Petroleum Company Limited (NNPC Ltd.)’s biggest exploration and production operations is managed through the Nigerian Petroleum Development Company (NPDC) headquarters on Oko-Ogba Road in Benin.
Football is deeply rooted in Benin culture. At one time, seven or eight of the eleven players in Nigeria’s junior national teams were from Benin. Back then, Nigeria enjoyed remarkable success until tribalism began to influence team selection.
Then there is the mystery of the night.
I will leave that to your imagination. Benin is indeed more vibrant at night, but visitors should exercise caution.
One of the great mysteries of the world is Benin City, one of only two cities renowned for historic defensive walls stretching across its frontiers, the other being the Great Wall of China. Historically, the city has been celebrated for its organised network of roads and for its extensive global diaspora.
Above all, what the Benin people cherish most is their monarchy. The supremacy of the Oba among his people is reflected in several Benin aphorisms:
Aiguobasimwin – You do not contend with the Oba; you submit.
Oba yantor ke’ vban ya se evboebo – The Oba owns all the land, even those in the diaspora.
The current Oba of Benin is His Royal Majesty, Omo N’Oba N’Edo Uku Akpolokpolo, Oba Ewuare II. He is a monarch of immense majesty whose charisma is reflected in his demeanour and disposition. Though a man of few words, his actions speak volumes.
A renowned reformer, the Oba transformed the administration of land in the Benin Kingdom by restoring order to a system that had been hijacked by vested interests before his ascension to the throne. His reforms led to the abolition of the Community Development Associations (CDAs), which had become obstacles to an efficient land tenure system in the Benin-speaking areas of Edo State.
His Royal Majesty has also pursued cultural diplomacy that has facilitated the return of numerous Benin artefacts to the revered Palace of the Oba of Benin. These efforts are paving the way for the much-anticipated Benin Royal Museum.
The Oba has consistently advanced the interests of his people within Nigeria’s diverse national landscape. To this end, he paid visits to former President Muhammadu Buhari and, more recently, President Bola Ahmed Tinubu to promote the welfare of his subjects.
The grandeur of His Royal Majesty is reflected in his well-organised and officially gazetted Royal Court. The Iyase of Benin serves as the Prime Minister of the kingdom, a position currently held by Chief Sam Igbe, a congenial and benevolent leader. The Benin Traditional Council also comprises several palace societies, including the Uzama and the Iwebo, among others.
The palace itself is magnificent and breathtaking. Yet beyond its physical beauty lie profound spiritual and cultural dimensions that remain unfathomable, even to the wisest minds.
The Oba of Benin remains the sole overlord of the Benin Kingdom, which comprises the seven local government areas of Edo South Senatorial District. No amendment to any law can alter history. The Oba of Benin remains the undisputed monarch who presides over the ancient kingdom of Igodomigodo.
Benin, however, is much more than the city itself. As the saying goes, Edokpolor, meaning Benin is vast. It encompasses both the visible and the unseen. When you arrive in Benin, Benin is still far. I thought I knew much about Benin until I recently encountered an entirely new dimension. I was nonplussed, yet it was truly an eye-opener.
The splendour of the Oba is further reflected in the palace’s rich cultural activities. One of the most celebrated is the annual Igue Festival, held every December. The festival comprises numerous ceremonies and events. During the celebrations, young Benin maidens and boys visit homes, dancing and offering prayers for the coming year while carrying the sacred Ewere leaf, whose origin is linked to a historic event that changed the course of Benin’s history centuries ago.
Benin is indeed a fascinating place. Its people are among the most hospitable in the world, but they should never be taken for granted.
It is a place of enjoyment, profound pleasure, and leisure for those who appreciate splendour. It is a land rich in history, culture, and mystery—a blessed land that welcomes all, irrespective of tribe or creed.
I have adopted a Benin name—Osadebamwen—as an expression of the love and warmth I have experienced in Benin.
Welcome to Benin, the land of bronze, the mystique of Igun, and the mysteries of Ogun and Olokun.
Nekpen, Nekpen. Aisiriuwa. Ekinama Edo Agbona.
Douglas Ogbankwa is a lawyer, writer, activist, and the Founder of the Benin Writers Society. You can contact him via douglasogbankwa@gmail.com